Rabbits: From Raising to Regulations

Choosing the right breed is the foundation of a successful rabbitry. Here's a quick breakdown by purpose:

Meat Breeds: New Zealand White, Californian, Rex, Flemish Giant — fast growing, good feed-to-meat conversion.
Fiber Breeds: Angora (English, French, Giant), Jersey Wooly — prized for their soft, spinnable fleece.
Dual Purpose: Rex rabbits offer both quality meat and a velvety pelt.
Pet & Show: Holland Lop, Mini Rex, Lionhead — great for families and 4-H projects.
Heritage Breeds: American Chinchilla, Silver Fox — worth preserving and increasingly popular on homesteads.

For most beginner homesteaders, we recommend starting with New Zealand Whites for meat or French Angoras for fiber.

Birth (Day 0): Kits are born hairless, blind, and deaf. A healthy litter is 6–10 kits.
Week 1–2: Eyes and ears remain closed. Doe nurses once or twice daily — this is normal.
Week 3: Eyes open, kits begin exploring the nest box.
Week 4–5: Kits start nibbling hay and pellets alongside nursing.
Week 8: Weaning time. Kits are separated from the doe.
Week 12–16: Fryers (meat rabbits) reach processing weight of 4–5 lbs.
6 Months: Most breeds reach sexual maturity. Does can be bred for the first time.
1 Year+: Prime breeding age. A healthy doe can produce 4–6 litters per year.

Common Health Issues:

GI Stasis: A slowdown of the digestive system — often fatal if untreated. Signs include no droppings, hunched posture, loss of appetite. Keep hay available 24/7 to prevent it.
Snuffles (Pasteurellosis): Respiratory infection causing runny nose and eyes. Highly contagious — isolate affected animals immediately.
Ear Mites: Crusty buildup inside ears. Treat with mineral oil or vet-prescribed drops.
Sore Hocks: Raw, ulcerated feet from wire flooring. Add resting boards to cages.
Coccidiosis: Intestinal parasite common in young rabbits. Keep housing clean and dry.

Holistic Prevention: Fresh herbs like oregano, thyme, and rosemary have natural antimicrobial properties and make excellent additions to your rabbits' diet.

Rabbits are prey animals and require serious predator protection. Common threats include raccoons, foxes, coyotes, hawks, weasels, and even neighborhood dogs.

For cage systems: Use 14-gauge or heavier wire. Avoid chicken wire — predators can reach through it. Secure all latches with carabiners or predator-proof clips.
For colony systems: Bury hardware cloth 12" underground around the perimeter to prevent digging. Cover the top of outdoor runs.
General tips: Motion-activated lights, livestock guardian dogs, and regular perimeter checks go a long way. Never underestimate a determined raccoon at 2am. 🦝

Traditional Cage System: Individual wire cages suspended off the ground. Easy to monitor health, control breeding, and manage manure. Best for meat operations and beginners.
Colony System: Rabbits live together in a larger shared space, often with access to the ground. More natural behavior, lower stress, but harder to manage breeding and disease. Best for experienced keepers with good predator protection.
Hybrid Approach: Many homesteaders use cages for does with litters and a colony pen for grow-out kits. This balances management ease with animal welfare.

There's no single right answer — it depends on your goals, space, and management style.

The Foundation: Unlimited grass hay (timothy, orchard grass, or meadow hay) should make up 80% of an adult rabbit's diet. It keeps the gut moving and teeth worn down.
Pellets: High-quality pellets (16–18% protein) supplement the diet, especially for growing kits and breeding does. Limit to ¼ cup per 5 lbs of body weight for adults.
Fresh Greens: Introduce slowly. Safe options include romaine lettuce, kale, parsley, cilantro, dandelion greens, and herbs. Avoid iceberg lettuce and high-sugar fruits.
Grow Your Own Feed: Sunflowers, comfrey, plantain, and fodder grasses are easy to grow and dramatically cut feed costs.
Water: Fresh, clean water at all times. Rabbits drink more than you'd expect — especially nursing does.

When to Breed: Does are ready at 5–6 months (small breeds) or 6–8 months (large breeds). Bucks mature slightly earlier.
How to Breed: Always bring the doe to the buck's cage — never the other way around. A doe is territorial and may injure the buck in her space.
Gestation: 28–32 days. Provide a nest box at day 28 filled with hay or straw.
Kindling: Does typically kindle in the early morning. Check the nest within 24 hours to remove any stillborn kits and count the litter.
Re-breeding: Does can be re-bred as early as 2 weeks post-kindling for maximum production, or 6–8 weeks for a more sustainable pace.

Angora rabbits produce some of the softest, warmest fiber in the world — and they need to be harvested every 90 days whether you want the fiber or not.
English Angora: Smallest, most fiber per body weight, requires daily grooming to prevent matting.
French Angora: Easier to maintain, slightly coarser fiber, great for beginners.
Giant Angora: Largest producer — up to 1 lb of fiber per harvest.
Harvesting: Pluck (preferred — follows natural shed cycle) or shear with small scissors or clippers.
Processing: Angora can be spun directly from the rabbit or blended with wool for added durability. A 50/50 angora-wool blend is a popular starting point.

Rabbit is one of the leanest, most sustainable meats you can raise. High in protein, low in fat, and easy on the land.
Processing Age: 8–12 weeks for fryers (3–5 lbs live weight). Roasters are processed at 6 months.
Yield: Expect roughly 50–55% dress-out weight.
Regulations: In most US states, you can process rabbits for personal use and direct farm sales without a USDA license. Always check your state and county regulations — rules vary widely.
Humane Harvesting: A cervical dislocation tool makes the process quick and humane. We cover this in full detail in the course with step-by-step guidance.

Start with 1 buck and 2–3 does. This gives you enough production to evaluate the process without overwhelming yourself. You can scale from there once you have your systems dialed in.

Startup costs vary but expect $50–150 per cage, $20–50 per rabbit, and $15–25/month in feed per adult rabbit. Growing your own fodder can cut feed costs by 30–50%. Our Rabbit Scorecard helps you track every dollar.

Absolutely. Rabbits are one of the best livestock options for small spaces. A trio (1 buck, 2 does) can be housed in a 6x8 foot area and produce significant amounts of meat or fiber. Always check local ordinances first.

Unlimited grass hay is the most important part of their diet. Fresh herbs, leafy greens, dandelion, comfrey, and plantain are all excellent additions. You can grow much of their feed right in your garden — sunflowers, kale, and fodder grasses are easy to produce at home.

Rabbits are sensitive animals but thrive with consistent care. The biggest keys are unlimited hay, clean water, good ventilation, and stress-free handling. Most health issues are preventable with good husbandry. Our course covers holistic health practices in depth.

In most US states, yes — for personal use and direct farm sales. Regulations vary by state and county. Some areas require permits for selling processed rabbit meat commercially. Always verify your local rules before you start selling.