Pull up a porch chair, neighbor. Goats are the comedians of the homestead ā endlessly curious, surprisingly clever, and remarkably useful. Whether you want fresh milk, natural brush clearing, or meat for the table, goats deliver. Here's everything you need to get started.
Why Goats?
Goats are one of the most versatile animals on a small homestead. They produce rich milk (perfect for cheese, soap, and drinking), they're natural brush-clearers that can tackle overgrown land, and meat breeds provide a lean, flavorful protein source. They're also smaller and easier to handle than cattle, making them ideal for beginners or those with limited acreage.
Fair warning though: goats are escape artists of legendary status. If there's a gap in your fence, they will find it. Plan your fencing first ā everything else comes second.
š Choosing Your Breed
| Purpose | Top Breeds | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Dairy | Nubian, LaMancha, Nigerian Dwarf, Alpine | Nubians are heat-tolerant with rich, high-fat milk; Nigerians are compact and great for small spaces |
| Meat | Boer, Kiko, Spanish | Boers are the gold standard for meat; Kikos and Spanish are hardy, low-maintenance foragers |
| Fiber | Angora, Cashmere | Angoras produce mohair; require shearing twice yearly |
| Dual-Purpose | Nubian, Boer cross | Good milk AND meat production from one animal |
| Brush Clearing | Spanish, Kiko, Boer | Hardy foragers that thrive on rough terrain and scrubby vegetation |
High-Desert Pick: Nubians and Boers both handle heat well thanks to their pendulous ears (which help dissipate heat) and their heritage in warm climates. Kikos and Spanish goats are exceptionally hardy and low-maintenance ā perfect for rugged desert terrain.
š”ļø Fencing: Your Most Important Investment
Goats will test every inch of your fence. They push, they climb, they squeeze, and they jump. Budget for good fencing before you bring your first goat home.
- Best option: 4" x 4" welded wire or cattle panels, at least 4ā5 feet tall
- Add a hot wire: A single strand of electric wire at nose height (about 6") on the inside of the fence dramatically reduces fence-testing behavior
- No-climb horse fence: Excellent for does and kids; smaller openings prevent heads from getting stuck
- Check corners and gates: These are the most common escape points ā reinforce them first
- Minimum pen size: 200 sq ft per goat for a dry lot; more is always better
š Shelter Requirements
Goats hate rain more than almost anything. A wet goat is a miserable (and potentially sick) goat. They need a dry, draft-free shelter they can retreat to at any time.
- Minimum 15ā20 sq ft of covered space per goat
- Three-sided shelters work well in mild climates; four walls with ventilation for cold winters
- Elevated sleeping platforms reduce parasite exposure and give goats their beloved "high ground"
- In the high desert: position shelters for maximum shade in summer and wind protection in winter
- Deep bedding (straw) keeps goats warm in winter and absorbs moisture year-round
šæ Feeding Goats
Goats are browsers, not grazers ā they prefer shrubs, weeds, and brush over grass. This makes them excellent land managers on scrubby desert terrain.
- Hay: The foundation of the diet. Grass hay (orchard, bermuda, or timothy) for most goats; alfalfa for lactating does and growing kids.
- Browse: Let them forage on brush, weeds, and shrubs ā it's free feed and they love it.
- Grain: Only for lactating does, pregnant does in late gestation, and growing kids. Overfeeding grain causes serious health problems.
- Minerals: Loose goat-specific minerals free-choice at all times. Copper is especially important ā goats need more than sheep.
- Water: Fresh, clean water always. Lactating does can drink 1ā4 gallons per day; more in summer heat.
- Never feed: Azalea, rhododendron, nightshade, or any wilted cherry leaves ā these are toxic to goats.
š„ Basic Health Care
- Hoof trimming: Every 6ā8 weeks. Overgrown hooves cause lameness and joint problems.
- Deworming: Use FAMACHA scoring (checking eyelid color) to identify anemic animals rather than blanket deworming ā this prevents resistance.
- Vaccinations: CD&T (Clostridium perfringens types C & D + Tetanus) annually for all goats; boosters for pregnant does 4 weeks before kidding.
- Disbudding: Remove horn buds from kids at 3ā7 days old if you want polled goats. Horned goats can injure each other and humans.
- Body condition scoring: Check monthly. You should be able to feel the spine and ribs but not see them prominently.
š£ Breeding & Kidding
- Does are ready to breed at 7ā8 months (or 80 lbs body weight ā whichever comes later).
- Gestation: approximately 150 days (5 months).
- Average litter: 1ā3 kids; twins are most common.
- Does typically kid in spring if bred in fall.
- Have a kidding kit ready: iodine for navels, colostrum supplement, feeding tube, clean towels, and your vet's number.
- Most does kid without assistance ā but watch closely and be ready to help if labor exceeds 30 minutes without progress.
š§ How Many Goats Do You Need?
Goats are herd animals and should never be kept alone ā a single goat is a stressed, vocal, unhappy goat. Start with at least two. For a family dairy operation, 2ā3 does in milk will provide more than enough for a family of four, plus extras for cheese and soap making.
"Our goats have cleared more brush, produced more milk, and caused more laughter than any other animal on our homestead. They're not always easy ā but they're always worth it. Start with two good does, build your fences strong, and enjoy the ride, neighbor."
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